Wednesday 10 October 2012

Losing sanity was not part of Kallol Datta's plan!

The early evening slot on Day 4 of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2013 was shared by three designers - Kallol Datta, the leader of the pack followed by Anand Bhushan and finally Rimzim Dadu.

Notwithstanding Kallol's fascination for the abstract which lead to another unique display of askew silhouettes and sharp cuts, the other designers too held their own and brought about a keen display of metallic elements outside of a bouquet of textural detailing. To say the least, it would seem as though metal has made a huge comeback this season at the fashion week, with several other designers too experimenting with it in their creations.

Kallol Datta - as bizarre as it gets
The caricature of a screaming man with the words 'losing my sanity never was part of the plan' digitally printed on some of the outfits were typically Kallol, who is known to incorporate obscure motifs, asymmetrical shapes, things from our daily lives like a time piece onto his garments, without making his inspiration apparent and leaving his audience to do some thinking. The show took off with a model walking down the ramp in a white skirt and top with black motifs of a pair of foetus with their backs to each other all over it. She sported black shoes with laces and sparkling silver eye shadow. There was a whole range of dresses with asymmetrical hemlines, bulging pockets, slits at odd angles, jackets with cuts from right below the chest, narrow pants for men and women in white with a splash of black.

The designer might not be tired of using the monochromes - black and white, but as an audience you too do not tire marvelling at each piece for its sheer use of the two classic colours. Talking about the inspiration for his collection Kallol said, "There was no inspiration. It is in continuation to the story I had narrated in the previous season. I have used some 3D fold shirts, askew pockets to give the outfits a sense of drama." Among fabrics, cotton, woolen, silk and net were used across all his creations.


Anand Bhushan - a heroic tale of styling and texturing
If there was one thing that stood out in designer Anand Bhushan's lineup for the evening, it was his play with textures and metallic elements. For spring-summer, the designer chose the colourfully-attired superhero Superman as his muse, but ended up dressing only women in shades of blue and beige. Said he about the theme, "Several components from the comic books and films have been fashionably interpreted in the signature textural style of the house." Sporting gigantic blue platform heels, Anand's girls strolled down the runway in an assortment of short fitted dresses, pants, gowns, skirts and jackets with intimate texturing detail and metallic work. We loved the blue short number with geometric cuts and a massive play with textures, the full-length gowns in silver worn with a sleek silver belt, and the cigarette pants with dramatic pockets stitched on their outsides. The embroideries and surfaces were strong and graphic with a special emphasis on diamond motif that ran through the collection.

From nudes contrasted with blue, the colour palette changed to silver and soft pink emphasising on the use of metal. On the whole the outfits looked like chunks of metal scraps put together to create a form, particularly the opening dress and one of the closing dresses model Carol Gracias wore, a short number made of rings of metal put together to give it a sharp, edgy look. Among accessories, a lot of heavy metallic neck pieces were used. Explaining his collection, the designer said, "The entire explosion of metals onstage was my way of interpreting the most awaited Superman movie, Christopher Nolan's Man of Steel. And hence the use of chains, metal pieces both as accessories and as element in the garments."

Rimzim Dadu - opts for plastic, and some metals
This time for spring-summer, designer Rimzim Dadu intended to be playfully crafty by presenting a lineup in three distinct chapters - textural stories, weaving techniques and floral motifs. In so doing, she exposed the audience to the technique of creating abstract 'charpoy' patterns with a tech-organic twist through metallic yarns. Her floral motifs too created the desired 3D effect owing to the individually hand painted sequins exploring techniques of marble dyes.

Rimzim introduced on the ramp a vivid lineup of abstract weaving sequin shirt with trousers, straw and metal woven cropped jacket with skirt, grid cutout dress and floral sequin jacket, moulded plastic bust shirt with metallic cutout skirt, net top with 3D petal skirt, cropped floral cutwork and applique shirt, marble embroidered dress, cropped bouquet blouse with trousers, and off shoulder net dress with 3D sequin jacket among others. She kept the colour wheel moving from white, black, yellow, to pink and purple while she displayed her twist with moulded plastic, metals, and weaving techniques. It was a pleasant collection overall, though nothing stellar.

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Losing sanity was not part of Kallol Datta's plan!

The early evening slot on Day 4 of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2013 was shared by three designers - Kallol Datta, the leader of the pack followed by Anand Bhushan and finally Rimzim Dadu.

Notwithstanding Kallol's fascination for the abstract which lead to another unique display of askew silhouettes and sharp cuts, the other designers too held their own and brought about a keen display of metallic elements outside of a bouquet of textural detailing. To say the least, it would seem as though metal has made a huge comeback this season at the fashion week, with several other designers too experimenting with it in their creations.

Kallol Datta - as bizarre as it gets
The caricature of a screaming man with the words 'losing my sanity never was part of the plan' digitally printed on some of the outfits were typically Kallol, who is known to incorporate obscure motifs, asymmetrical shapes, things from our daily lives like a time piece onto his garments, without making his inspiration apparent and leaving his audience to do some thinking. The show took off with a model walking down the ramp in a white skirt and top with black motifs of a pair of foetus with their backs to each other all over it. She sported black shoes with laces and sparkling silver eye shadow. There was a whole range of dresses with asymmetrical hemlines, bulging pockets, slits at odd angles, jackets with cuts from right below the chest, narrow pants for men and women in white with a splash of black.

The designer might not be tired of using the monochromes - black and white, but as an audience you too do not tire marvelling at each piece for its sheer use of the two classic colours. Talking about the inspiration for his collection Kallol said, "There was no inspiration. It is in continuation to the story I had narrated in the previous season. I have used some 3D fold shirts, askew pockets to give the outfits a sense of drama." Among fabrics, cotton, woolen, silk and net were used across all his creations.


Anand Bhushan - a heroic tale of styling and texturing
If there was one thing that stood out in designer Anand Bhushan's lineup for the evening, it was his play with textures and metallic elements. For spring-summer, the designer chose the colourfully-attired superhero Superman as his muse, but ended up dressing only women in shades of blue and beige. Said he about the theme, "Several components from the comic books and films have been fashionably interpreted in the signature textural style of the house." Sporting gigantic blue platform heels, Anand's girls strolled down the runway in an assortment of short fitted dresses, pants, gowns, skirts and jackets with intimate texturing detail and metallic work. We loved the blue short number with geometric cuts and a massive play with textures, the full-length gowns in silver worn with a sleek silver belt, and the cigarette pants with dramatic pockets stitched on their outsides. The embroideries and surfaces were strong and graphic with a special emphasis on diamond motif that ran through the collection.

From nudes contrasted with blue, the colour palette changed to silver and soft pink emphasising on the use of metal. On the whole the outfits looked like chunks of metal scraps put together to create a form, particularly the opening dress and one of the closing dresses model Carol Gracias wore, a short number made of rings of metal put together to give it a sharp, edgy look. Among accessories, a lot of heavy metallic neck pieces were used. Explaining his collection, the designer said, "The entire explosion of metals onstage was my way of interpreting the most awaited Superman movie, Christopher Nolan's Man of Steel. And hence the use of chains, metal pieces both as accessories and as element in the garments."

Rimzim Dadu - opts for plastic, and some metals
This time for spring-summer, designer Rimzim Dadu intended to be playfully crafty by presenting a lineup in three distinct chapters - textural stories, weaving techniques and floral motifs. In so doing, she exposed the audience to the technique of creating abstract 'charpoy' patterns with a tech-organic twist through metallic yarns. Her floral motifs too created the desired 3D effect owing to the individually hand painted sequins exploring techniques of marble dyes.

Rimzim introduced on the ramp a vivid lineup of abstract weaving sequin shirt with trousers, straw and metal woven cropped jacket with skirt, grid cutout dress and floral sequin jacket, moulded plastic bust shirt with metallic cutout skirt, net top with 3D petal skirt, cropped floral cutwork and applique shirt, marble embroidered dress, cropped bouquet blouse with trousers, and off shoulder net dress with 3D sequin jacket among others. She kept the colour wheel moving from white, black, yellow, to pink and purple while she displayed her twist with moulded plastic, metals, and weaving techniques. It was a pleasant collection overall, though nothing stellar.